Thom Browne Reinvents the Chubby Ski Jacket and Diesel Black Gold Takes Rock 'n' Roll To the Tailor: The Best Looks From Fashion Week">
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GQ creative director Jim Moore hand-picks the most GQ looks from the runways—with analysis, trend reports, and tips.

jim-moore-moncler-dieseltrop.jpgMoncler Gamme Bleu:Whether it’s for his eponymous line or for his Moncler Gamme Bleu line, you go to a Thom Browne show knowing anything could happen. Suddenly you can feel like you’re on Mars. This season, Browne stayed true to the 1970’s-inspired puffy ski jacket that they used to call “the chubby.” For variation, he played with countless iterations of the quilting—box quilting, channel quilting, chevrons, etc. Then the ski jackets came off to reveal matching variations in sports jackets. I love how he kept one silhouette throughout, with endless twists. This show reminds me of Thom Browne’s famous show in Florence where every single model was wearing a camel topcoat. When one idea is repeated endlessly, it can really change your eye. My favorite looks were all neutrals.

jim-moore-moncler-diesel-_0004_3.jpgDiesel Black Gold: This is the third strong season for Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad, and I love how much readymade personal style comes through in this show. Each look feels like it was put together by an incredibly stylish real guy who has an innate sense of himself, so borrow these moves. Melbostad loves to mix distressed, rock ‘n’ roll pieces, like these jeans, with a tailored element, like this really elegant black flannel jacket.

jim-moore-moncler-diesel-_0005_2.jpgHere we have the inverse of the previous look: Rock ‘n’ roll up top, tailored down below. The jacket is rough and tough, while the pants look like they were borrowed from a shadow plaid suit.

jim-moore-moncler-diesel-_0006_1.jpgThis is a full-on motorcycle jacket but it’s in wool tweed instead of leather, which looks really fresh.

jim-moore-moncler-diesel-_0003_4.jpgUsually when you think of a diagonal stripe you think of jockeys or polo players, but there’s nothing preppy about this look. It’s a gentlemanly, traditional graphic that’s recontextualized on a skinny rocker sweater.

See the rest of Jim Moore’s Milan Fashion Week picks.

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