Yesterday we grabbed a few minutes with Matthew Orley at his Fall-Winter 2015 presentation (he’s one third of the brainshare with his wife Sam and brother Alex). He dropped some knowledge on us about impressionist painters, and gave us a little insight into who the Orley dude (and newly born woman) is.
GQ: So, where are we at with Orley for Fall-Winter 2015?
Matthew Orley: Well, obviously women’s is a big step forward for us. We like to really not have such a direct inspiration season to season. We like to say that the guy really carries through and that there’s a consistency to who this Orley guy is.
And who is that?
You know, for the guys, we like to say this is a guy who’s raiding his grandfather’s closet, and with women’s it’s her grandmother’s closet. More specifically in this season, we were thinking a lot about the twentieth century impressionist painter William Merritt Chase and i think that some of those ideas come out in the collection. But we’re still really focused on the core tenets of the brand—large scale jacquards, our knits, keeping with the Italian yarns.
Are you guys doing more alpaca season? What materials are you working with?
Yeah, we’ve got more alpaca this season. We have a lot of cashmeres this season, too, a lot of really beautiful merinos. We still use mostly cariaggi yarns.
So why did you guys do women’s? That is a pretty big deal.
We had a large private clientele of women who were coming to us and buying men’s sweaters. People would call and say we want a XXS in this, and that gave us the confidence that there was a woman who was familiar with the brand and wanted to buy into it. It is more feminine, though, a little sexier.
And things are going well with the CFDA?
Yeah, we’re still in the incubator and we were in the fashion fund this year. It’s an amazing program. The support of the CFDA has been incredible.
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