On the ground in Europe, GQ’s peerless fashion editors bring you their favorite looks from all the shows. Here, creative director Jim Moore talks Burberry.
“A lot of different people were in the audience because John Galliano is showing his first collection for Margiela women’s today, so there was extra tension in the air, and a packed house. The scene was set, the stage was set, and then the clothes were kind of a continuation of what Christopher Bailey has been doing for a while—a little more bohemian, artistic, kind of walking a bit away from anything too structured. Even if it was a suit, it had a little bit of a soft shoulder. The jackets were a little boxier—there’s less waist suppression, which is very anti-British in a way. I think he was looking at the Bloomsbury Group probably, from the ’60s. Things like tweeds were done in a more heightened palette, definitely more jewel-tones, with that whimsical British palette. It got at the heart of where he always saw Burberry going—something a little bit more softer and gentler.”
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